Soft-scrambled eggs are my new butter. They’re my new ricotta. They’re my new avocado smeared onto toast, so in fashion today. How exactly do you soft-scramble eggs to a creamy, curd-like consistency? Softly. And slowly. It’s about as easy said as it is done.

I can appreciate that when I’m making a small weekend breakfast, or snack before dashing out the door. The slower process really slows me down, letting me enjoy the simple act of cooking deliberately, yet not laboriously or for a long time. You have to pay attention; letting down your guard may wind you up with just scrambled eggs, which we’ve had plenty of before. But a simple change in ideal outcome makes you take notice of each step.

Top it with some flecks of grated parmesan and a twist of black pepper. It almost resembles mealy polenta, with its drooling consistency. Add any vegetable that you please for contrast (in the summer, some diced fresh tomato, perhaps). This weekend it was spinach, the warbled, wintery type that has lasted through frost but tastes sweeter in the end. This takes even less time to wilt in a pan first than the eggs.
Get some bread you really enjoy as toast, and warm it meanwhile. Smell its sugars browning on the pan as it crisps up. Then, just stir your eggs. Reduce the heat and stop if must be. Then stir some more. Stir and cook it until it almost resembles polenta (but takes much less time than cornmeal). Sure, you can poach an egg for breakfast, but a soothing change of pace is always nice.

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